Heat Sinking The PA To The Cabinet
by Don Cantrell, ND6T
by Don Cantrell, ND6T
I am a real advocate for keeping components
cool. They last longer and are generally more stable. The heat sink provided
with the BITX40 is adequate for lower power levels but bigger and better heat
sinks provide for longer component lives and peace of mind. If you are going to
install the transceiver in a metal box then you might consider using that
enclosure as a heat sink. Whenever I have done this it has always worked very well.
In the early stages of installation I positioned the board as close to the rear of the cabinet as was convenient but it still left about 1/4” (6mm) gap between the Power Amplifier transistor (Q15) and the back panel when the original heat sink was removed. I found a small block of aluminum that fit nicely. I drilled a hole toward one end to match the hole in the tab of that IRF510.
When the mounting spacers had been attached to
the BITX board (so I could tell where the transistor was located in respect to
the panel) I marked and drilled the transistor's attachment hole first. I then
placed the mounting bolt through the transistor, spacer block, and rear panel
to temporarily hold it before marking and drilling the four holes to the
attached mounting spacers of the BITX.
When mounting stuff in cabinets a bit of extra
time and planning goes a long way toward preventing mistakes (and forehead
slaps with cries of “OY!”). Go slow and save big washers and hole plugs.
After the board is mounted use a shouldered
nylon or ceramic washer to insulate the mounting bolt from the transistor tab
which is connected to the collector. Don't let it short circuit to anything. A
mica or silicone pad between the spacing block and the transistor completes the
insulating job while still conducting heat. If you use a mica insulator be sure
to use heat sink compound on both sides of the insulator. A silicone pad does
not need it.
If you cannot find a suitable aluminum block
then look for any heat conductive metal. Copper, brass, even steel. I haven't
tried it but I would assume that a stack of coins (with any corrosion sanded
off) would work. Considering the cost of new metal stock in the hardware
stores, it might be cheaper to just use money!
My BITX output transistor now runs so cool that
I cannot detect any temperature increase. Just DO NOT TOUCH THE TRANSISTOR
WHILE TRANSMITTING! RF burns are worse than the damage you feel from picking up
the wrong end of a soldering iron. Or so I'm told.
de
ND6T
Hi Don, is the chassis grounded ? I thought I read somewhere that the heatsink shouldn't touch any metal because it would short. I want to do the same as you here but my box will be grounded.
ReplyDeleteAndrew: Yes, like I wrote in paragraph 5, it must be carefully insulated. There are many insulating kits available for the TO-220 case if you are not able to salvage them from old equipment. Always double-check to make sure that you are, indeed, properly insulated.
ReplyDeleteDon, ND6T
Hay is this blog still run no new posts
ReplyDelete